How to take a photo that rates accurately
The model scores what it can see. Four things you control that move the number more than anything you cannot.
Light it from the side, never from the front
A phone flash fires straight down the lens axis, which is the worst possible direction. It blows out the surface into a flat white patch and erases exactly the detail that the skin texture axis is scoring. Then it drops a hard shadow behind everything, which flattens the shape axis too.
Window light at roughly forty-five degrees is the whole fix. Side light rakes across the surface, texture reads as texture, and shape gets the shading it needs to look three-dimensional. Overcast daylight is the easiest version of this - no adjustment needed, just stand near the window and turn the flash off.
Shoot level, not down
The default phone angle is looking down, and it is the single most common reason a result comes back lower than expected. Downward foreshortening compresses length into the frame and distorts the ratios the shape and proportions axis reads. You are handing the model a photo of a different shape than the one you have.
Level with the subject, camera a little further back than feels natural, is the honest framing. It also happens to be the flattering one, which is unusual - most of the time those two pull apart.
Back up and crop in
Phone cameras are wide-angle. Anything close to the lens gets stretched and anything further from it gets shrunk, all within the same frame, and at close range that distortion is severe enough to visibly change proportions.
Take two steps back and crop the photo afterwards. You lose some resolution and you gain accurate geometry, which is a trade worth making every time. Resolution is not what is scored; proportions are.
Give it a plain background
A busy background costs you on the two subjective axes - overall appeal and erotic impact - without touching the four physical ones. It is free points, in the sense that you are currently paying them for nothing. A plain wall, a plain sheet, anything without pattern.
Same for the frame: crop out everything that is not the subject. Every extra object in the shot is something the model is weighing.
Then check whether it worked
Take three photos varying one thing at a time and scan all three. The six-axis breakdown is what makes this worth doing - you can see precisely which axis moved when you changed the lighting, rather than guessing from the total. What the six axes measure explains what you are looking at.
When you have a result you are happy with, posting it to the leaderboard is free and works without an account - guest entries just show as Anonymous.